![]() ![]() In other words, the highlighted area below actually protruded farther out of the plane than the actual edge. It turned out that the back side of the bevel was hitting the wood. As I was cutting I could feel the plane pulling away from the surface of the wood. Below are shots from the test cuts for the 45 degree ha-ganna. First Test CutsĪfter sharpening each ha-ganna, I took a few test cuts to see where things were at. To clarify, the following two images show the different angles I’m talking about.īy altering the blade cutting angle, you can adjust what angle results when cutting your kumiko. Since you can’t really change the blade bedding angle or the blade angle itself, to achieve an accurate cut, everything comes down to the cutting angle. The geometry between the angle of the blade itself (as it’s been forged), the bedding angle of the blade in the dai, and the angle of the cutting edge all play a role in what kind of angle you will end up with after cutting your kumiko. Once I had an even area of contact from the course stone, I repeated the same process using the finish stones. Since the stones are soft you need to frequently touch them up on the lapping plate to keep them flat and maintain the correct shape. Once the stones were ready I lapped each blade on the course stone until I had an even flat area of contact across the cutting edge. Slowly grinding away while frequently holding the blade to the stone to check that I was making the shape the correct angle. I highly recommend soft stones for this task.Īfter cutting the stones into smaller parts I shaped each on a diamond lapping plate. ![]() Compared to a King the Shapton was a pretty hard stone, and it took forever to shape. ![]() Once I shaped a 1000 Shapton stone for use with a round kanna blade. I chose these stones because they are pretty cheap, but also quite soft and easy to shape. To make the stones above, I bought a King 1000 course stone, and a Kita-yama 8000 finishing stone and cut each up into four parts. Below are the course and fine stones that I shaped for each of my four ha-ganna blades. No stones are readily available for purchase, so for each ha-ganna blade you need to make your own set of stones. While the bevel side of the blade can be sharpened using a standard flat stone, the inside (ura-side) requires stones that are shaped to match the angle of each blade. Ha-ganna require specialty stones for sharpening. I’m definitely not an expert when it comes to these planes, and a lot of this is new to me, but there is so little info available about ha-ganna that I feel like it’s worthwhile to share none-the-less. (This last part is one that I’ve been having particular difficulty with on my 60 degree ha-ganna.) So I thought I would share what I can regarding my approach to sharpening ha-ganna. In addition to get a clean cut the edge needs to be really wicked sharp. Initial setup requires a few time consuming tasks, such as cutting and shaping stones for each blade, and tuning the edge so that it cuts at the right angle. So far in my limited experience playing around with ha-ganna, sharpening has been one of the more challenging aspects. ![]()
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